💰 A guide to mountain bike axle standards - BikeRadar

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Your frame is most likely intended for mm spacing and measures mm either because of manufacturing tolerance or because it was bent.


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Tech Breakdown: How mm Rear Hub Spacing Affects Road Bike Chainline & Shifting - Bikerumor
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Frame Spacing/Hub O.L.D. information | Halo Wheels
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83 Nishiki bicycle V. Setting frame spacing and alignment..

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Older bicycles used narrower spacing, but older frames can often be spread out upgrade it with a new rear wheel, derailers and shifters (or internal-gear hub).


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Boost spacing explained real quick

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The dropout spacing of a frame must match the overlocknut distance of the wheels that are to fit it mm, Rear 7-speed (MTB) and 8- 9- and speed (​road).


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Bicycle Repair - Playing With Wheel Dish Axle Spacing - BikemanforU

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Virtually everyone that's making or planning a disc brake road or cyclocross bike has mm rear hub spacing on the drawing board.


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Superstar Components - Understanding Rear Hub Axle Sizes

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The dropout spacing of a frame must match the overlocknut distance of the wheels that are to fit it mm, Rear 7-speed (MTB) and 8- 9- and speed (​road).


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Dropouts: What You Need to Know - Bicycle Framebuilding

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Quick Hint: “Axle Spacing” in the following chart will correspond with your hub's width measured both your front and rear dropouts, as this is not uncommon. C.


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Cold Setting A Bike Frame (126mm to 130mm Hub Spacing)

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The dropout spacing of a frame must match the overlocknut distance of the wheels that are to fit it mm, Rear 7-speed (MTB) and 8- 9- and speed (​road).


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How to Adjust Spacing on a Bike Frame

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Rear hub width varies widely, but the most common sizes are mm for road and mm for MTB; There are two main hub types, front and rear. As bikes have​.


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Fix Rear Bike Wheel - Off Center/Rubbing Frame

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Virtually everyone that's making or planning a disc brake road or cyclocross bike has mm rear hub spacing on the drawing board.


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What is Boost? Explaining the new mountain bike hub dimension - MBR

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Rear hub width varies widely, but the most common sizes are mm for road and mm for MTB; There are two main hub types, front and rear. As bikes have​.


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Changing the Avant Rear Hub Spacing

Even if you cracked a nice chromoly frame, its weldable. It is much better to do the real job: making custom dropout plates that are a perfect match with the motor. But over than much, things get annoying. You can leave the stays bend alone, they will crank back down to with the axle nut pressue. The idea is the plate attaches to the outside of the original dropout, which being typically about 5 mm thick, adds 10 mm to the width. I built a 12 gauge front wheel too but that fell together like it was meant to be i worked out my spoke lengths and perfection pursued, for the bike the rim choices where perfect I got a 2.{/INSERTKEYS}{/PARAGRAPH} My suggestion is that you cold set the steel frame for whatever wider wheel you have in mind, and add spacing as necessary to narrower wheels to make them fit the frame. When I said alloy, I was meaning aluminum frames. Variable geometry. The only thing is I've seen people swear up and down that you'll get non-parallel dropouts and it will ruin the hub bearings or even destroy the hub, which sounds like an urban legend to me. If you want to fit a wider hub, you need to either stretch the rear triangle evenly, of make custom dropout plates to fit the wheel centered. A straight alignment is a must for a bike to handle good. If the bike has alloy rear section, then you have to build a torque plate that extends the rear enough for the gears and disc brake on the wider motor to clear the original frame, and in the process, add that 10 mm. Mostly us horribly inexperienced guys here wanted to tell you not to bend the shit out of an alloy bike. Not much wheel misalignment is needed to affect the bike handling and braking, limiting the speed that it will be safe to ride. Even less if the disc brake is in the more upright seat stay mounted position. And they get a lot more annoying when the wheel is too wide for the frame than when the frame is too wide for the wheel. Spacers even better as long as the axle is long enough for that. Only the tiny bit of bend aligning the dropouts needs to be bent back for mm. Bend out the stays, then bend in on the dropout plate to get parallel again. Not much of a problem, but every time the wheel is removed and re-installed the alignement can change for a variation of flex of each chainstay. When bikes are designed with asymmetrical rear triangle, it is to make them aligment straight with offset hub. If your dropout width is mm, you need to space a mm hub to make the wheel centered and aligned. A mm wheel in a mm frame makes you do dumb stuff with the QR skewer or axle nuts to get the wheel installed. General Discussion about electric bicycles. You likely could still just crank down on the QR lever till it springs back to Otherwise, spacers could be used easily with any longer axle, though you might have to also put spacers under a brake disc. That would be fixable on a steel bike. Visit Grin Technologies at www. Make it fool-proof, and I will make a better fool. No problem. Last method, fabricating a new rear swing arm, if the bike is a rear suspension bike. If it's an aluminum frame, use a hub that fits it. Easy if the dropout plates bolt on already, harder if not. Its when you start bending it out 5 or 8 mm per side that it starts to go bad. Most likely at the weld, or at the weld on the stay. Rear hub spacing - compromise? This is to express my gratitude to Justin of Grin Technologies for his extraordinary measures to save this forum for the benefit of all. How many spacing washers need to be in that 0. That will need to be tuned with a stack of spacing washers on one of the screws if it is IS mount, and some post mounts that are ribbed will be PITA as well. {PARAGRAPH}{INSERTKEYS}Quick links. I'm thinking maybe cold set the frame to mm. Also, the chainstays are not always bent equally each side after the axle nuts are tighten, and often result in wheel misalignment. This is making sure the wheel and brake are always aligned, no matter how often you take it off, and how hard you ride. But bending steel alloy too much could crack it. Current bikes Street: Trek Session 10 mod. They will flex out 6 mm fine, 3 mm per side but 10mm is a bit much for most alloy frames. That way, I can pull it apart by hand for the extra 5mm for the hub motor or squeeze it 5mm with the axle nuts or skewer if I want to put a in. Anybody have experience with non-optimal hub spacing? But a mm wheel in a mm frame can be a real wrestling match if the frame is stiff. You really can get away with a lot on steel, especially the cheap steel. The only problem with spacers would be if the bike was returned to the original QR wheel. They make 5 different thickness, making possible to tune with 2 or 3 when you have them all to choose from. A couple of mm total width discrepancy either way is easy to live with. Re: Rear hub spacing - compromise?